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Philippe · Joined: 21 Nov 2006 Posts: 1

I want to climb Chimborazo in 2 weeks. Is it a good time of the year? Easy enough if you´re fit enough? Can you hire warm gear like down jacket? Any recommended companies? Should I book it in Riobamba or are there good companies in Banos as well? And is it easier/better than Cotopaxi? I know it´s a lot higher but lots of people seem to struggle with summitting Cotopaxi. Lots of questions, but would really appreciate any advice.

Thanks!

Unni · Joined: 31 Oct 2006 Posts: 2

I am an experienced mountaineer, and I think you are underestimating the undertaking.

Fitness is important - but has nothing to do with the specific skills of mountaineering. Even an "easy" route like Chimborazo or Cotopaxi will have potentially fatal objective hazards. Ask yourself:
* Do I know -exactly- what gear would save my life if I had to stop at any point on the mountain? (twisted ankle, sudden snowstorm, fatigue)
* What are minimum safety requirements for glacier travel? (are you sure that your route-finding skills will be sufficient?)
* What effect will altitude have on me? (hint: if you think there's a definite answer, you may be halfway to an accident in the making)
* Do I know what decisions I will have to make, ahead of time, and have I thought them all out?

High mountains are beautiful, special places -- and one of the joys of climbing in the Andes is the nearness of 'civilization' (read: short approach hikes, which lessens danger), as well as the relative stability of weather in the hills.

But if you are asking about renting a down jacket that is a huge indication of lacking any sort of experience -- for either of those peaks (and just about any where you will not be tenting at altitude overnight) you are far better off with thinner, more compressible layers. Down is bulky and inconvenient. Also, I haven't the slightest clue as to the condition of either peak these days, but heading there without having experience with proper footwear is another bad indicator.

My suggestion would be to contact guiding services PRIOR TO DEPARTURE, and request that they provide you with an equipment list; if they don't have one printed, I wouldn't hire them. [note: I have seen many local guiding services in Andean countries who are staffed by talented, accomplished climbers, who cut corners on safety -- usually because they misunderstand their clientele).

If you find a safe and competent guide, your experience will be wonderful: they can teach you the skills necessary for future endeavors on your own, and they will relieve you of the stress of much of the decisions that need to be made.

High-altitude mountaineering, when it goes well, can have the semblance of snowy hiking. It is not snowy hiking; and things can go wrong quickly, with little to no margin for error. Please be careful.

Clint · Joined: 26 Oct 2006 Posts: 3

I'm an experienced mountaineer too. I think you can be fairly relaxed as long as you go with a reputable guide. They'll adjust to your capabilities and will turn around if things aren't looking too good. Being well prepared will increase your chances to succeed though as this is not a climb to take lightly. I spoke with one guiding company in Riobamba (can't remember the name but it seemed to be run by Swiss or Germans) when I planned to climb Chimorazo and they seemed very professional and had very good equipment from what I saw (they can provide you with pretty much everything). I would have gone with them, but decided not to in the end because I wasn't properly aclimatised at the time and wanted to save my time for Peru. You need to make sure you're acclimatised, otherwise you'll not be able to enjoy the climb, if you manage to make it at all.

You could try to book something prior to departure but it shouldn't be too tricky to sign up on the spot either as long as you have some flexibility.